sewing 101// how to ease a sleeve

Ease a sleeve, haha! I just love how that sounds.

sewing 101: how to ease stitch a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

I have some new patterns coming out soon  (^^sneak peek alert!) and some require sleeve easing…it’s always been one of the trickier techniques for me to get right and my testers found it challenging also. So today I wanted to go over how to how to ease a sleeve into an armscye. It’s easier than you might think and once you learn, you’ll be set for more advanced sewing!

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

Sleeves have lots of built in ease for wear. Just think of all the movements your arms can do, you can stretch, wave, clap, dance, jump (and flail your arms), etc, etc. So many movements that require fabric to stretch and move. So sleeve caps have a really high curve full of extra ease. If you just sew the sleeve underarm seam and try to pin it to your armscye you’ll have a really big problem. Why? Because that extra ease means extra fabric. We have to prep it first so we can ease it in.

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

The first thing you’ll do is ease stitch the top of the sleeve cap right at 3/8″, or your pattern’s seam allowance. We need to tighten the fabric right where we are going to sew it so we can avoid tucks and gathers that don’t look pretty.

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

Ease stitching is not longer or shorter than normal stitching you use to sew seams. It is the same stitch length.

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

Now pull your threads and redistribute the fabric. This will remind you of gathering fabric with basting threads but the fabric will remain taut and shouldn’t bunch up like gathers. This part could take a while, so sit back and take it slow.

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

Once you’ve done that you can pin it into your armscye. Make sure the fabric is flat where the seam will go. Then sew along the ease stitching. Watch for tucks and gathers and smooth the sleeve as you sew.

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

When you’re done, remove the ease stitching and look for tucks that you may have to unpick and re-sew. Then give it a good press and you’re done! Not that bad, right?

how to ease a sleeve into an armscye // seekatesew.com

Cheater method: If you’re just ready to give up, you can use my quick cheater method. Use a longer stitch length and slightly gather the fabric. You really don’t want to gather the top of the sleeve unless the pattern calls for it, but a longer stitch length will make it easier to bunch the fabric up. I don’t endorse this method as you will usually end up with lots of tucks that need to be fixed. If your fabric is a little heavier though, it might be the only way to do this without breaking your thread a whole bunch.

That’s it! Check out more sewing 101 tutorials here

and stay tuned for more patterns soon!

 

Make Believe

Comments

  1. says

    I’ve always struggled sewing sleeves so I have to try this technic.
    Thank you so much for the great tutorial!

  2. Madeline says

    I was always taught to sew two lines a quarter inch away from each other only from notches then gather to fit and sew between lines. Much easier and smoother fit.

Trackbacks

  1. […] Then length of a sleeve cap is usually longer than the sleeve hole.  This is done on purpose, as the extra fabric allows for more room at top of your arm so it can move freely.  That extra fabric has to get “eased” in to the smaller hole.  It takes a little time, but if you do it right, you’ll get that sleeve cap eased in with no telltale puckers or tucks.  Kate from See Kate Sew shows how to do it.  Get the tutorial at See Kate Sew. […]