Let’s talk about grain.
Grain matters. Usually.
Every piece of woven fabric has grain. Lengthwise grain, crosswise grain and bias grain. Grain describes the direction of the threads. It’s important when sewing, just like woodgrain is important when building.
The lengthwise grain is parallel to the selvage edge.
Crosswise grain is perpendicular.
Bias grain runs at a 45 degree angle from lengthwise and crosswise grain.
A lot of clothing manufacturers don’t pay attention to grain on purpose. Cutting on the grain is not always economical, but it will make your clothes hold up better.
How to get your fabric on grain:
When you get home from the fabric store, getting your fabric on grain is pretty simple. You might need a friend to help you though. Tear your edges so you know you have your threads right. I always cut a slit first, then tear. Then all you need to do is stretch it on the bias grain. So, have your friend grab a corner of the fabric and you grab the opposite corner on the other side of the length. Pull until the edges line up.
Here’s an ugly diagram to help explain: If this is the piece of fabric you need on grain…
Let’s get technical:
Lengthwise and crosswise grain are also referred to as the warp and weft, respectively.
warp=lengthwise
weft=crosswise
Warp threads are the first to go on the loom. They are secured tightly and then weft threads are woven back and forth to make a woven fabric.
Grain doesn’t always matter. If you’re just using your fabric for a little crafty project, it really won’t matter how you cut it. For example, I didn’t pay attention to grain for this fabric covered tissue box.
That’s your Sewing 101 tip for the day. I hope I didn’t bore you!
This is going to be a little series, mostly to help remind me of correct sewing principles but maybe you’ll learn something useful, too.
Do you have any sewing questions you want answered? Do you want to know sewing lingo? Ironing secrets? My favorite sewing tools? Please let me know what you want to know!
Jayna Rae
02/03 at 4:39 PMI found this CRAZY helpful. When I took a sewing class I missed the first week. Thus, I missed this explanation. I have wondered ever since. Also, I never realized that the cutting was bad.
kate
02/03 at 4:42 PMCutting isn’t always bad. Only lightweight wovens need to be torn to keep it on grain. I should have written that! Glad it helped!
Rachael
02/03 at 5:47 PMWow! I had no idea… thanks for sharing, I have alot to learn! :)
Kendra
02/03 at 6:45 PMI have to tell you that your photo covered dresser was hands-down my favorite project over at Crafting with the Stars. Brilliant, original, modern, beautiful. Great job!
April
02/04 at 1:30 PMso… what happens if you don’t tear it/use it as is for projects? eek — have i messed up all of my projects??
i would really love to see a post on the pros of cutting mats, since i’m not entirely sure why or how to use them… that seems so silly since i’m sure it’s a very simple answer!
_Julie_
10/30 at 1:59 AMI am working on making shoes, boots and slippers for my daughter who is 15 months. Can you give me any tips making them (eg., where to find appropriate material for the soles and how the heck to get the inside out tecnique correctly, etc.)?
Toni
01/21 at 4:42 AMMy husband gave me a sewing machine for christmas and I would love to start sewing. Any projects that would help me get back into the swing of things? Its probably been about 6 or 7 yrs since I last sewed.
Toni
01/21 at 4:44 AMMy husband gave me a sewing machine for christmas and I would love to start sewing. Any projects that would help me get back into the swing of things? Its probably been about 6 or 7 yrs since I last sewed.
El Cee
11/15 at 3:09 AMWhat do you mean “it will make your clothes hold up better”? I have never heard of this, and I’m not quite clear on why it matters…?