I love love love patterns. I don’t usually use them as they come, but I use them in one way or another all the time! However, they have also made me crazy in the past. So here’s a little rant on patterns. (And how to make your experience better!)
1. The sizes are wacky!! I am not a size AMILLION thank you very much. But in pattern size, you have to size UP a few sizes, usually 2-3. Why? Because pattern companies went mainstream in the early 1900s and have not changed a thing. I think we should standardize them all, but I guess that would be too difficult. (what?)
How you can make it better: Measure yourself. Measure your hips, bust thighs and waist and find your size. There are a lot of things to measure, but these basics will get you in the right starting size. You may not be the same size on top and bottom. Once you know your “pattern size” you’ll never make a 3-sizes-too-small purple pencil skirt and cry as you peel it off your body again. (True story, minus the crying. But I do usually run 10 miles after this happens.)
So when you go to the store you can buy size amillion and just know everyone else is buying that size, too.
2. The bra cup is too small/big/high/low/wrong. Standard patterns are made for a B cup.
How you can make it better: So if you’re not a B, you’ll have to change the dart size and possibly the angle of it. It’s not as daunting as it sounds.
3. The instructions are crazy. Pattern companies are trying to get better at making simple instructions but it is difficult to show some things on a piece of paper. A lot of pattern companies are introducing, simpler, more trendy patterns that are the perfect starting place for clothing.
How you can make it better: To be honest but I usually don’t even look at the instructions as I piece together a pattern, though I keep them by my side. If you’ve made a dress or skirt or pants before you know the order of assembly. Pattern companies don’t always publish the “right” way to do things, either, just the easy way to illustrate it.
4. The numbers on the back are so confusing.
It took me a long time to figure out all the crazy numbers on the back of the pattern.
How you can make it better: The only reason all those numbers are there is to help you get the right amount of fabric. Once you know your pattern size(which is typically another set of confusing numbers on the back), just scroll down to find out how much yardage you need. Typical cotton prints come on 40″ bolts, so you’ll normally need the yardage for 40″. If you’re in doubt, just buy the bigger number and you’ll have extra! Don’t even look at all the other columns.
5. Words without definitions. Oh and words in Spanish.
What the heck is a ***nap? Not the kind where you sleep, but that would be nice.
How you can make it better: For the most part you can just ignore it. Nap is a strange word for one-way design. If you are using a fabric with a “nap” it is a fabric with a pile (like velvet, terry) or luster (satin, silk) that looks different from different angles. It just means you’ll need extra yardage to cut it out. The same is true for prints or plaids that need to be a certain way. Nap really just means pile, but I think it has become all inclusive of the other things, too.
If you’re not using the Spanish/French/whatever instructions, set them aside so you don’t get too overwhelmed.
(*** added for dramatic effect. I think the pattern companies think stars make it more confusing. And it does.)
Do you have any to add? I’m sure I’m missing something. So what do you think about patterns? Are you a lover or a hater? Or both?
Both for me! I’m only just learning to use patterns.. actually, I’m only new to sewing anything, let alone clothing! I love that I am learning all the time, but some patterns are WAY beyond my comprehension skills just yet!
Love reading your blog!
I’m a new follower to your blog and very new at sewing! I’m excited to watch you create~! JessicaNdesigns sent me!
Your blog is so cute! Stopping over from Jessica N Designs!
I absolutely hate patterns… they are way too confusing for me as a beginning sewist. If it weren’t for tutorials on the internet, I doubt I would be sewing at all!!
I’m not a fan of any kind of pattern, even “simple” ones. I find they always leave a step out or assume too much about your skill level. I usually end up having to “wing it” in order to get a result that I like and that I can live with!
So I haven’t ventured into the world of patterns yet, but I’d like to (and I might start with one of those Lisette patterns you have right there).
Can anyone give me tips for how to fiddle with the pattern if your waist is in one size but your bust/hips are in another? Should I just cut out the skirt piece in one size and the top piece in another (assuming I’m making a dress)?
love this post! i think the reason i always gave up on sewing when i tried it in high school and college was because the patterns were so hard to use.
i didn’t really get into sewing until i started using blogs and books that were so, so, so much more user-friendly. suddenly, sewing was more about fun that frustration!
now that i think of myself as someone who can sew, every once and a while, I buy a traditional pattern at the fabric store. I always regret it and end up abandoning the project.
I took sewing in high school. I remember there was one whole class period devoted to deciphering the pattern envelope and instructions. Figuring those out is probably more than half the battle.
Visiting from JessicaNdesigns,I’m already your follower and love your blog, thanks for the giveaway :)
Love your stuff! coming over from Jessica N Designs.
I HATE patterns!!! I have never successfully sewn something with a pattern that even remotely looks like what it’s supposed to be. Not that they all turn out horrible, some things have still looked decent but then they didn’t fit me. I prefer finding online tutorials or vlogs on how to make things. I LOVE all of your sewing 101 tips! :0)
http://nestofkrohs.blogspot.com
Whereas I am quite pattern dependent, and I’m trying to force myself to step outside that box and learn to do more drafting. I learned how to sew in junior high, so I “get” the (admittedly, somtimes wacky) language of patterns. I also resigned myself to being like TEN SIZES bigger in sewing patterns than everything else a long time ago. And I know some tricks: I measure myself, I measure the tissue, I tissue fit, I make muslins (or at test drive with cheaper fabric), etc. All of that makes a HUGE difference in the final outcome.
I once lost the english instructions to the pattern for my girls halloween dresses. I searched for weeks, and I only found the spanish instructions. So i took them to my sewing guru friend who is also fluent in spanish. She translated and rewrote the instructions for me. In the end the dresses turned out better for it. Since she explained the how and the why of steps. two days latter i found the english instructions, they might as well have been in spanish
Stopping over from JessicaNdesigns. I’m already your follower and love your blog. I’m excited about the giveaway!
This is so true! I’ve pretty much ditched the pattern too.
Also, thanks for telling me that they run small. It totally makes sense. You would think that after a few garments not fitting, I would figure that out, but I just thought I was sewing wrong.
ACK!!!! Patterns, no, no, no, way not for me ;)
I used to use them only for the item I made to never ever fit. I would get so frustrated spending sop much time on someting for it not to work out :(
We do not get along patterns and I. I however have used some for basics on sewing and made AJILLION alterations to it LOL
For many simple things, tracing around an existing garment can work, but for more intricate things that really require true drafting skills, a pattern is the way to go. I know their instructions can be intimidating & confusing, but that’s how I learned to sew. Over time, I’ve learned what construction techniques work for me so I pretty much just use the pattern instructions as a guide line.
I’m scared to death of patterns but hope to learn them at some point. Thanks for the pointers!
SO MUCH makes sense now. I’ve never been a good pattern sewer. Usually I just go for the take apart old clothes and use those method or drape over my DIY duct tape dress form. Everything I do with a pattern comes out awful!
HATE HATE relationship with patterns… the sizing is completely ridiculous, I measure at some stupidly large size which inevitably works out to be way too big and never ever looks like it did on the packet. So glad others agree!
i hate patterns for anything. i dont know my sewing vocab, i just sew. i asked my sister what baste meant and she didnt know because i pronounced it bah-s-teh. i think it means pinning.
Thank you for this. I’ve been sewing since I was about 10 but I’ve only used patterns for a couple years, mostly to make dresses/skirts for my girls, bags, and stuff for around the house. I would love to try to make clothes for myself but always felt overwhelmed. You’re blog has been so helpful
Thanks a million,
Erin
Hi,
I really like your blog and all the help you provide to everyone out there sewing (or at least trying to)…
I have used mainly vogue patterns and find that when I measure myself and pick the correspondant size indicated on the pattern it has always fitted very big (like 2 sizes biggers) which required a lot of adjustements (and patience, rrrrr)
Did anyone notice the same size problem ?
Thanks
Yes! I wrote about that problem above in the post. It is because they haven’t standardized sizing and pattern sizes are not current with clothing sizes. You’ll have to size up at least 2 sizes.
old post, I know, but I recently followed my first pattern and OHMAHGOLLY I can relate. I thought wedding dress sizing was bad–now i’m eight million sizes larger? Thanks, guys. Since I’m still a sort-of newbie, I still use the instructions, but these “look-here-not-there” suggestions make things easier! Thanks, Kate!
As a member of the generation who learned to sew in Jr. High School and someone who took it to the next level and sewed all of my clothes for years, I can say that sewing from patterns increases your knowledge of sewing and helps you to master the craft. I know patterns can be frustrating, but, in retrospect, having to decipher the instructions (and perhaps find an easier way to do something) and adjust sizes is a good thing. I also love sewing without patterns but the items I sew with a pattern almost always come out better fitting and more comfortable than the ones without a pattern. Once you know how to adjust a pattern to fit your body, it almost always works for every design.
I’ve been sewing with patterns for as long as I can remember because that’s how my granny and mom sewed and they taught me everything I know. You’re totally right about the sizing; I won’t even admit to my sewing pattern size and I’m far too chesty for a B cup. Once you learn to “allow” (as Granny would call it), it’s not hard to adjust patterns to fit your figure. As for the instructions, charts, and definitions, they are definitely a language unto themselves, but it’s second nature now.
I agree with Peggy – probably 90% of my sewing knowledge came from sewing patterns. They can be frustrating at first, but I’ve never regretted learning how to read and use them. Online tutorials are really great and I’ve tried many, but sewing patterns offer so much variety and detail.