Bagged lining are so nice! You will love this professional hem finish. This is also one of those techniques that might give you a headache at first but will be totally worth the satisfaction and boost in your sewing confidence afterwards. I simplified this tutorial a tiny bit and took tons of photos, so I’m hoping walking you through this process will make it easy and fun.
Let’s get started! I’m demonstrating this technique on the Kennedy coat just because it was easier to show you with a smaller garment. The pieces are the same as the Icon, but the proportions vary. The Kennedy pattern actually doesn’t called for a bagged lining (I wanted to give you a break) but you can add a bagged lining to any coat/jacket pattern that has a lining and I will talk more about that tomorrow. Tomorrow I will also show you the Kennedy hem method which is super easy and not bagged. (And one of these days I will actually release the Kennedy pattern! I’m sorry it is taking so long, I’m just doing finishing touches!)
Okay, let’s get started!
Bagged Lining Tutorial//
To prep your coat for a bagged lining, the outer coat should be finished with the collar basted on.
You lining should be assembled as well, including front facings and sleeves. I scrounged for my lining, using little piece I had laying around, so the sleeves are rayon and the body is cotton. I didn’t have enough to make the horses run the same way so they are just running all over the place ;).
Your lining will have 3 openings. 2 of those are at the bottom of the lining/front facing seam. Leave about 3″ open at the bottom of this seam.
The other opening will be in the lining side seam. Leave 6″ open for turning later.
Clip off 1″ from the bottom of the lining. Leave the facing for now.
To sew the outer coat to the lining turn both inside out and place right sides together. Flip the collar DOWN so it becomes encased in the seam. Now pin the fronts and necklines together, matching the shoulder seams at the neckline. Pin well and stitch around these three edges.
Start and stop 1″ from the bottom of where the facing meets the front coat.
Now we are going to baste the hem of the outer coat. Fold up 1″ and pin.
Here is a view of the other side. The coat hem is flipped up 1″ and pinned all the way across the hem. Leave the facing and lining alone for now.
Beginning 3″ from the front, stitch hem in place at 1/4″ from fold with a baste stitch.
Here is a view of the outer hem (folded and basted, the facing (still long) and the lining (trimmed 1″). I think the most confusing part of this process is keeping track of all the different pieces and lengths, so hopefully this photo will give you a good checkpoint.
Now lay coat flat. We are focusing on the facing and outer hem right now. Clip the outer hem right where it lines up with the facing.
The clip should go 7/8″ and butt up against the stitching you just made at the hem fold.
Now stitch from the corner to the edge of the hem.
Clip the excess fabric.
Pull the lining out from under the coat like so:
Now match lining with hem with right sides together.
Pin all the way across.
View from the other side:
Now stitch all the way across them hem at 3/8″.
Trim all the corners of your coat and flip it rightside out through the hole in your lining.
Remove baste stitches at hem. Give your hem a good press, focusing on this corner.
Now you’ll need a needle and thread for finishing. Fold under the facing, catching the little bit of lining underneath.
Slip stitch this section closed.
Once you’ve done that you have three options to finalize the hem.
1) Press really well
2) Topstitch bottom edge of coat with matching thread.
3) Finish hem with hand stitching.
Your choice may depend on the type of fabric you are using and how you like the way the hem looks. I prefer to have the hem pressed well without topstitching or using a hand stitch to keep the hem flat. It is up to you though!
And you’re done! Not that bad, huh? Now you can admire your bagged lining!