set-in sleeves: flat vs. round
There are two ways to set in sleeves, one is easier than the other. I thought I’d show you both for today’s sewing 101 lesson.
“the right way”: in the round
Setting sleeves in in the round, is harder for me than sewing them in flat. I always end up with little pleats that have to go and take out later. It is also hard to get your sleeve to match your sleeve hole because fabric stretches when you pull it!
I’m calling this “the right way” because it will give your clothing higher quality. A sleeve sewn in the round wears better than one sewn in flat.
How to: To sew a sleeve in in the round, sew up your garments side seams and shoulder seams. Sew up your sleeves side seam. The sleeves can be the last thing you do on your piece.
Ease stitching alert! By ease stitching your sleeve and stay-stitching your sleeve opening you will prevent both from stretching all over the place, which often causes them to not fit correctly and you may end up with little pleats. Ease stitching uses the widest stitch length on your machine (like basting). Stay stitching is just a normal stitch. You only need to do these between the notches on your sleeve and opening.
Turn your garment inside out, but leave your sleeve right side out. Stick it in the sleeve hole and pin in all around.
Then sew it up! That’s it, really! But you should go and check out your sleeve, make sure it’s smooth without tucks or pleats. The press it. Finish your seam however you want. It sounds simple but I’ve pulled out hair over sleeves before. Ease and stay stitching take more time but are totally worth it!
quick n’ dirty: flat
This method is pretty quick compared to sewing in the round. You don’t have to ease stitch, although you can. I always get fast and nice results from sewing sleeves in flat.
How to: Sew your shoulder seams together, but leave your side seams open.
When you need it, this lesson will be on the sewing 101 page along with more tips.
So how do you typically sew sleeves in??
Thanks for the visuals. I will have to try the flat method next time. It seems like it would be less frustrating!
I prefer sewing sleeves flat too. It takes a lot of pain out of setting in the sleeves and I believe makes the garment more professional looking.
I like your tutorial. I think it is encouraging for the new sewer who may avoid projects with sleeves.
You said it! I have always done a terrible job on sleeves, and I’ve been afraid to try adding sleeves to my garments because it’s the only thing I just can’t figure out. Now I’m feeling pretty bold!
oh my gosh, that flat stitching method is so brilliant! why have i never done that before? Thanks for sharing.
-heidi
http://www.aweekfromthursday.wordpress.com
Flat sewer here :blush: I can sew them in the round but it really is a pita ;-)
Thanks for the great how to! I haven’t ventured into sleeves yet but will refer to this when I do. :)
Do you have a pattern for those cute dresses? I would love one. If you don’t have a tutorial, would you be willing to put one in your etsy shop? I would totally be interested!
aliciarowberry{at}gmail{dot}com
I always try and sew my sleeves flat. Why take the fun out of sewing? :)
Thanks for this. I didn’t finish the sleeves on my daughters pillow case dress. One wash and they were awful. I’ll redo them with your advice. Bless You!
why have i been doing it the ‘right’ way all these years??? That’s awesome and totally makes sense! Thankyou thankyou thankyou!!!!!
What is ease stitching?
You are awesome. What a fabulous post.